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Tour of Nilgiris..... a war, a victory & a journey within

So Friends....Finally I've gathered myself back from the hangover of TFN!!! And realized that I'm due for a Blog :P

Tour of Niligiris........... a war, a victory & a journey within!!!!

The Way to TFN

Like most of you; I enjoyed my childhood cycling, having fun, doing stunts...& the general feeling of freedom ;). For me Cycling has always been Freedom & Fun. Entering college saw the last days for my cycle & gave it away, expecting another set of two wheels... a Motorcycle. But I would use the neighbors' cycles now n then just for having fun & fooling around...I started to like it so much so that I decided to get my own cycle.

We all use Internet today to do most of our research work & whilst searching for my Cycle I came across this Online Cycling Community. It was great to see people from different walks & faces of life meet over weekends to chill out & cycle. Finally bought myself a Sexy Trek 3700 in Oct 08; I was having a blast...getting out the child in me.

It was here that I first came across now I was already cycling to work & started to 'Seriously have Fun' ;D. The idea of touring 6 days on cycle with more than 100 kms a day through scenic beauty... was awe inspiring; but on a more realistic terms seemingly close to impossible. How in the world could one cover 100+kms on a Cycle????? doing a 100 on a motorcycle was tiring enough. I was curious to know the people who could do it....or believed they could.

I was interacting with Rajesh & Rakesh....members of the TFN & was generally asking them questions about the tour. It was during these conversations that my interest in TFN was growing higher by the day & a contemplation within myself that I couldn't do it...not my cup of coffee...its for the professionals.... bla bla bla!!!!

I firmly believe "you can't say, can't be done...unless you do it yourself". So I wanted to do it....But this was during my Birthday & New Year, so I was wanting to party with Friends & Family instead. I also believe that "we just tend to find excuses for not doing things that we don't wanna do"; Which was exactly what I was doing. This made my thoughts firmer for joining TFN...& the final push was provided by the Nair Brothers.... these words from Rakesh made me take the plunge,

":-) :-) i think i will be riding on my birthday and make it a moment forever to remember. On my 30th year of life, I cracked a 100 mile ride in a day. I will remember this :-) Would you rather stay at home ... and spend the time eating or would you go out for a party and get pissed or would you rather achieve a milestone on your birthday??? you decide :-) If I were you, I would doing the TFN... an achievement"

It’s not about the Bike ;)

Now that I was game for TFN...another problem struck. TFN was beginning to be a Road Bike event...too Fast to Furious for the humble MTBs. Anyway I was all up for it "no matter what, I'm gonna do the TFN". So I started the discussions on getting MTBs for TFN...although there were many speculations on the speed & efficiency of MTBs, a lot of people wanted to do TFN on their MTBs rather than buying expensive Road Bikes. The MTB gang grew & thankfully the organizers opened up 10 slots for MTBs. {in the end there were more MTBers than Roadies ;P}

Tour-de-Mumbai [Night Riders]

Training for the TFN had already begun by doing the Aarey Climbs & taking longer route home. But it was still not enough. I needed long rides to test & train myself. Doing a short distance in loops was quite boring, so worked out a plan of looping the Mumbai City for a 100+ ride. Doing this at day time was something of a speculation, so decided to do it at night....!!!!

I was quite apprehensive of this not only as this would have been my 1st 100+ but also as it was during the night time. Yet I was scared more of bonking out & being stranded rather than anything else. Hence was postponing it...thought it lacked the punch of motivation needed to do something crazy like this..........

"Tour-de-Mumbai".......that was a fantastic name!!! It had the feeling, the punch, the emotion...& sounding like Tour-de-France it had all that Legend & Folklore thinggy to it. It spurred me with a sudden drive for doing it & completing it. Along the way I got two other crazy duds...Yogi & Nishant for the ride. It was the title that worked... I guess :P. But a whole lot of people had their apprehensions of doing a Night Ride in the city..we all know that :)

The final route & direction was finalized right at the very last moments when Nishant started off from his home. Most of the route planning was done by him & we started off from our meeting point 9pm. I clocked 130+Kms that day, it was a great achievement & I couldn't believe that I did it. Ya the last 40km was testing, physically & mentally.

This was the birth of the Night Riders group & we again did another night ride to Titwala.

Training Hard

I was then fortunate enough to have Rajesh Nair (the legend himself) in Mumbai for a week...& he was kind enough to Train with us mortals :). Training with him was tough & testing....he made us train hard & gave lot of tips & pointers which proved more than useful.

Doing the complete Aarey stretch non-stop was a booster & doing it twice & thrice over nonstop gave my confidence a new plateau. I was feeling the heat of training & lt made me ready for the TFN mentally at least if not physically. { only later to find out that this was nothing but a joke against the TFN }

The D-Day {Its gonna be a Fight....!!!!}

Having got a lot of motivation from Friends Family & Colleagues & a lot of support from my Organization; which arranged for pickup & accommodation in Bangalore...there was more time to focus on the TFN D-Day. I was getting goosebumps even 2 days before...( didn't wanna ride!!!). After assembling our bikes at Bangalore we rode a few Kms & got the TFN formalities done on 24th. That night I slept with a chill down my spine. I woke up many times & looking at the watch & the time would seem to pass as if it was in slow-motion. When I actually woke up from my un-restful slumber, time seemed to have upped its speed & I felt I'm slow that morning. We were getting late :(.

Reaching the TFN Starting point was the 1st surprise of the day. It was bigger than what I expected; I've never seen so many cyclists at one place. We were greeting each other & trying to attach a face to the on-line alias..Although a day before at pre-tour briefing we did that a bit, but the turn-up here was a lot more as many riders had joined only for a certain distance for encouraging us.

Breakfast was ready & all of them hurled on to it as if there was no tomorrow. There were some TV Channels for the coverage of the event ;).After a good briefing by our Tour Director - Pradeep(battery); All the cyclist took over the morning sleepy streets of Bangalore. Everybody was riding in a group & we were leaving behind people on the road in awe & wonder, the cops were leading the way which would further add to their surprise. Soon we reached our 1st Pit Stop...Blr University. Here is where things changed...all this while I was thinking it'll be a group ride all the way...but the Roadies were asked to forge ahead as the MTBs waited their turn :(.
From Tour of Nilgiris

This being the Blr-Mysore Highway....a rolling field of Tarmac; the Roadies were having a ball, flying on the road, they were racing. Well the roads were so good that even us mere mortals on MTBs were clocking 30kmph+ with ease & I even crossed 60kmph on a steep downhill ;D. Sooner than we knew we were at the 2nd pit stop... 70+kms (nonstop) into the ride at a petrol bunk. Reaching there we realized that many
roadies didn't even wait to have food & flew away to glory. A quick bite, some rest & I took off...not realizing what waited ahead.
From Tour of Nilgiris

Till now it was a fantastic ride & a 100kms was looking a piece of cake....yes it was. Crossing the 100 mark was easy, but the sun was high & no shade...another 70km looked testing & my longest till date was 130+. Testing it was... soon as I crossed 120 & started feeling the heat, I was stopping often & my Hydra Pack was getting empty (it was provided by Wildcraft for the full tourers) with support no longer in site. I was feeling as if I was cycling alone I didn’t even spot a single rider :(. after about 20kms finally saw a few of them having Naarial Pani, joined them to cool off.

Now the support vehicle had come asking for us to get swept (taken to the destination in the car). I did'nt want that to happen on the 1st day itself so took off from there. Tried my best riding fast but it was just too hot for me. By the time I knew it I was past my record of 130+. But it was getting late & the support was bothering from behind. I stopped to refill by water just on the entrance of Mysore. There I was forcefully swept only to realize that I just had another 18 or so kms to go :(. Anyway was taken to the hotel for the evening snacks...where each one had a story to tell :), while relaxing with a cup of Coffee/Tea.
From Tour of Nilgiris
Wish this was my garage!!!!

We then cycled to the Mysore Palace, spend sometime there & then to the youth hostel, calling it a day. A nice hot shower, delicious dinner & was off to bed. Although I felt the days ride was quite boring... which was anyways to be proven by the rides ahead, going to bed with a personal record of 150+Kms in day; I was proud, happy & dead tired.

From Tour of Nilgiris

Day 2 {The adrenalin rush}

Day 2 started with an annoying sound of the alarm...set at 5.30am, Why??? Well all those cyclist & just few washrooms, we were literally racing each other. The breakfast was served at 7am followed by the 1st Birthday Boy of TFN Sharat, who was given the honor to lead the pack. After the 1st day, where most cyclists were cycling alone, day 2 saw cycling groups & partners... I followed suit & found my own partner; Francis was on his there was this brotherly feeling to it too :).

From Tour of Nilgiris

The beginning of the ride was through the city & again nearly half the stretch of the route was on the highway.... although not boring like Day 1. There was a lot of green stretches or maybe it was the company of Francis, & for most part of the ride we did a lot of chit-chatting while cycling along the way, exchanging our stories of how we got into cycling & TFN. Had a quick stop to drink the tempting Naarial Panni again... but by then we were starting to feel the heat & ahead we saw the support van which tempted us to get swept. But we kept pushing each other for pedaling ahead.

From Tour of Nilgiris

On the way we met a weird cyclist who was wearing a bike helmet & riding.... after we caught up with him we realized that its our Shridhar, riding as an UFC ( unidentified cyclists ). TFN Rules.... No rider without a helmet :).

From Tour of Nilgiris

We then came across a group of riders waiting for the sweep & enjoying a cup of tea, could'nt resit this time & we joined the gang & waited to get swept.
From Tour of Nilgiris

After about 15km or so we were dropped off for tackling the climb & descent till Madikeri. The climb was tough but I managed to pull it off well... not to mention Francis' weird expression when he saw me climbing on the largest chain ring :). And the reward for all that effort was served when we got into the descent. While we were enjoying it Francis stopped at a very small but steep climb to a house.... which he wanted to do, so we both gave it a shot & reached the top... with all that great feeling of successfully completing the first serious climb on TFN.... we descended to the beautiful home-stay... surrounded with lush greenery. Near to which we met a village kid who surprised us with his fluent English.

From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

The day ended with delicious food over a camp fire; you can't ask for more.... only a good night's sleep.
From Tour of Nilgiris

Birthday Bash...or Sweat, Pain, Cramps & Scenic beauty

No network in Madikeri meant frustration for my family & friends, I got a good sleep & no birthday calls at night. But the TFN Team remembered it & just like Sharat I got my share of the Chocolate Moose cake with the honor of leading the pack. Well I thought someone might just gift me their expensive Road Bike ;). I was hurried to start off & lead the way for some time till people started to overtake.
From Tour of Nilgiris

The ride was filled with shades of green, so much so it made me feel that the scenery was repeating itself. I was so happy that I was amidst the beauty of nature on my birthday, & Francis told me that there's more to come as we pass by Waynad Forest. The terrain got lusher with greenery & soon we were at the entrance of Waynad forest; the smile of the gate keepers assured that many cyclists have passed through :P.

I was lost into the forest...a nice slick tarmac laid...surrounded with bamboo trees alongside; it felt like I was in one of those wallpaper photos on our desktops. We were on the lookout for wildlife, as Anil had seen elephants in his earlier experience of driving through here. After a brief pit stop we spotted couple of deer’s grazing about in the jungle, they were barely visible as their coat camouflaged them still I managed a click.

Zoom in & U'll see...
From Tour of Nilgiris

Funny Sign Board....
From Tour of Nilgiris

We all wanted to continue the ride through the forest but were diverted because some riders had changed the route so we all had to follow suit. Now the route was through some small towns & it nearly added 50+kms to the ride which was unexpected & unmanageable. It was getting dark & we were forcefully swept at around 6.30pm, dumped into the truck like sheep.

The road was pathetic & going through it on a truck in not very comfortable positions was frustrating. Somehow we reached Sutan's Battery at 8.30pm, only to find out that the rooms were not very good. Fortunately my friend Yogi with some other riders arranged a very nice room.

It turned out to be a bad day for the very good TFN Team. Anyway a good hot water bath & south indian hotel dosas finally gave some relief. Even after a messy end this was the best birthday I ever had & a one in years without booze.

From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

It was time to rest & it was desperately needed for the biggest day of TFN; the climb to Ooty.

Heart of a Mountain.... Ooty

Since last ride ended in a mess & with the shortest but toughest ride of TFN, the ride started late...around 9am after a hearty & filling breakfast, arranged all thanks to sweet talk by Dr. Renu(my TFN Mom). Rajesh gave some tips for the ride & but Pradeep on a rather seriousnote was straight & blunt... "If U can't make it to Gudaloor, or think that was tough. Then just get in the support van & reach Ooty".

This day was the most hyped & considered a test even for the pros', forget mortals like me. But I was determined not to get shaken by words.

The start was rolling for a few Kms then the ascent started.... it was gradual not that difficult & me & Francis were doing well. This time I consciously didn’t crank hard on the climb saving myself for Ooty. The view during the ride on TFN was improving by each day & every day it would surpass the scenery earlier, this was no different, beautiful panoramic view through the mountains & tea estates all over the slopes, not to mention the road condition, amazing!!!.

Tea Estates on slopes
From Tour of Nilgiris

A long way to go..... :)
From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

While we were lost in the views, stopping often & enjoying the panorama as wide as the eye could take in, we managed to reach the lunch point, to our surprise I must add; cause it wasn't as difficult as it was sounded off. Anyway we had a quick lunch & were off to Gudaloor.

From Tour of Nilgiris
Out of this world...isn't it!!!!

Finally we encountered some downhill to the Gudaloor town...Ooty base. on the way we saw Yogi chilling out at a tea stall; but he was burnt out & was waiting for support. We helped him out & he got on to TFN fluid truck.

From Tour of Nilgiris
signature Tamil Nadu Rickshaws

As soon as we started off from the base, the mountain greeted with some serious grades; it was becoming increasingly difficult to climb. It was only here that I used the granny gears & still could feel the strain on the hips & the back.. also the traffic was adding to the effort breaking rhythm & cadence every now & then. It was nothing like the earlier climb. We had to stop often for resting our muscles & recovering.

From Tour of Nilgiris

This was getting tougher by the minute. We reached Gudaloor at a very decent pace but this was much slower, the grades were getting steeper & the hairpin bends made it further difficult climbing, it was also getting colder. My knees, hips, calf, back & the ankles were shouting at me, I could hear voices in my head.... for just giving up & taking the sweep, then; I would tell myself why was I here??? for giving up??? & something kept me going. It was like a fight against my own body, I would stop & not want to get back on the saddle, but then.... I would get on to the saddle & push again. I was lost inside my own self... I would say to myself, "If I'm quitting here then I'm better off quitting 200meters ahead".

The grades were showing no sign of mercy & we were at points where we could see the circling road above us...& the tea estates on the slopes. This gave me an idea that we should just trek over the slopes through the tea estates; this will also help us recover, cut a few kms of climb & will be fun.

From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

He agreed & we ventured into the estates... we then found out that we could even cycle here... so we did. Off-roading on TFN, who would've imagined. We had amazing time riding & trekking through the estates, fortunately there were no workers & we didn't have any probs. We finally had to take the road as the Tea estates ended.

This activity gave a lot of feel good energy to us & we took to the climbs. Some riders with Babu & Dan passed by us on a truck & gave us a thumbs up which added to the energy. But soon it ran out & I started struggling again & so the fight began from where I left it. I focused out of myself & into the view when we entered the Wilson estate; the slender & straight Nilgiri Trees with the sun rays filtering through. This helped me a lot & made it a bit easier fighting & pedaling ahead.

From Tour of Nilgiris

The expression should say it all....
From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

Francis reminded me of the time... & i instantly knew that we were out of it. It was close to 6pm, getting cold & the daylight had noticeably reduced. We still had about 10+kms to reach the Youth Hostel. He said taking a sweep till near to the town would be better as riding in the dark without any lights was dangerous & he was already down on energy but was cycling just because I was.... funny I was doing the same thing!!!! :).

From Tour of Nilgiris

We decided that we'll take the sweep till 4-5kms to Ooty as riding in the dark through the town isn't a problem. We called for support & Srikanth was there.... We then were dropped near the city for riding till the youth hostel. This too wasn't easy, well it was damn cold, I couldn't feel my fingers & lips on top of it all we were having a hard time finding the hostel. We found one but it was the wrong one.... the other one was at the other end of the town. We met some other riders & finally made it to the hostel & were greeted with loud noise & a hot cup of coffee.

Didn't take much time finding boiling hot water bath giving all those muscles relaxation...4 buckets of it. Dinner was served again over a big campfire & ride stories.

From Tour of Nilgiris

I was quite & alone... wondering how the hell did I get here??? I was wrapped with a sense of achievement, even though I took the sweep for some distance.... Not only because I made it through the toughest part of Ooty but also my own self. I had pushed & fought myself till the breaking point & came a long way ahead from where I would have given up; like I won over my own self the... & a subtle pain all over my body was telling the story out loud & I was enjoying it...I've never experienced anything like this felt like bliss...I was on a high...out of this world, like when you're high on spirits after booze. I enjoyed it till I fell asleep.

Time to savor the achievement

I've never got up to a morning which felt like this before. I was still on the high & feeling so good, the pain was still there. And while I was still taking in the achievement; the day passed by with some nice time with Rajesh over a cup of coffee & Aaloo Paratha sharing stories, tips & other general stuff.

Deeksha...Who had joined us in Ooty as she had exams coaxed me to join her for a Toy train ride. I thank her for that coz there were some amazing views that I would've missed. We took the last train to Conoor & were back in Ooty by bus, Me, Francis & Deeksha then decided to go shopping for some popular Homemade chocolates, filled my bag with loads of it. Deeksha in her usual female self started shopping for sweaters & bargaining :), she bargains so much, she actually steals money. We had a delicious & a filling dinner at Kabbab Korner.

From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

The Ooty stage was over...& in many ways the adrenalin rush, the Hype, the myth & very much the TFN was over, it was time to head back. I was proud that I'll be leaving Ooty with a feeling of achievement & I'll never forget how I've won over myself in testing times. I covered so much from where I would've given up, I made it...& it has thought me that.... everything can be achieved only if you have the heart to do so.

Down We go (the Night Riders)

I've experienced that the character of a mountain can be felt when you climb it.... & it’s no different while going down. All the riders were fresh from the rest day & ready to take the road but many of them didn't because of the steep downhill, most of them Roadies. This was the other route to Ooty, from Mysore & very steep. It was here that the MTBs had an all of us went pass enjoying the downhill... roaring at some places & carefully at others... the Hairpin bends were just hair raising. The downhill was quick & some of the riders had a bad fall, even I did, only a slip on the wet leaves & fell on the grass while turning...just a thud & nothing even like a fall.

The first time in the ride when I passed some of the Pros on Road Bikes & friend Rajesh too. yippee....this was no moment of glory really...!!!! but worth a mention :).

At the base we were left in groups as this was through the forest...Our group was dispersed but we soon found each other & we had a new member Deeksha. The view again was amazing & this time we barely missed the elephants while some of them got a chance to see some. We didn't spot any wildlife here, all of us cycled in a file formation & it looked good. The region looked more arid & not very lush we didn’t see any wildlife here at all, & soon we were on very bad highway roads with no shade till lunch point.

From Tour of Nilgiris

Well the file formation & riding in a group helped us get the privilege of being the first night riders of TFN. Although our pace was good it wasn't fast enough...but we kept riding & soon others behind us were getting swept but we were not touched. As soon as the sun went down we were being followed by a support car & a bike ahead clearing our way, they did this all the way till Mysore Youth Hostel. Everyone were shocked to see 5 people ride through the night. After reaching we all had a blast & were jumping in joy. The Night Riders were born. Most of riders on TFN knew that I love doing night rides & getting to do it on TFN meant I got all I asked for & more. This was turning out to be a trip more than I expected.

The TFN Night Riders...
From Tour of Nilgiris

Adrenalin Drain....The Grand Finale

The last day was kinda most difficult one cause seeing such beautiful scenery earlier I was in no mood to do a 170+km on dead tarmac. But we decided to ride at least till lunch point & then take the sweep till finish point. So we started off & in the rush missed some of the members, so me, Francis & deeksha kept pushing. The day 1 ride on the other side of the road was boring cause I was alone but with company it was different. We were having a lot of fun, singing together & stopping at a few places, the best one was at a watermelon stall. And then we were there, had a good lunch & I took a cup of coffee too, put our bikes in the truck while Deeksha was making plans for having an exit midway near her home.
From Tour of Nilgiris

Since there was not much place in the Truck, we were asked to sit in the Ambulance... & it was cozy & cool with an Ac. Enjoyed the french fries & coffee in there, later Deeksha took off with someone on the bike & me & francis slept off for some time. Then the TFN Team started sweeping people...many of them didn't like the idea but was necessary for all of us to reach & ride till finish point. We all had to ride from Nice Road till Vidhan Soudha-Cubbon Park. So we did & every one was riding a Critical Mass ride.

From Tour of Nilgiris

Deeksha took a detour for heading off home & we hugged goodbye, not knowing when we'll meet again.

From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

From Tour of Nilgiris

The Group finished the ride at Cubbon Park & a lot of Pics while riding & loads of interviews, photos & goodbyes & Bike salutes made us stay till dark, it was then that people started pushing off their respective directions, assured that they'll meet the next day at the dinner.

From Tour of Nilgiris

One of the two responsible for getting me at TFN :) Thanks man
From Tour of Nilgiris

With the man himself :).... Can't thank him enough.
From Tour of Nilgiris

So Me & Yogi did the same, He didn't ride that day at all, & I was too tired to even walk, we had trouble getting a ride back to the guest house as it was at a remote location but somehow managed a Taxi & reached there. Yogi had plans of drinking as it was New Year's we got some booze.

I felt completely burnt out...didn't even wanna drink but had one glass & went off to sleep. Next morning I felt as if someone had sucked everything out from me & I wanted to go home as soon as possible. I was experiencing was Rajesh had told me in Ooty...adrenalin drain!!!!. Well I didn’t care so I took whatever flight available & came back home at 1 in the night. My mom was all exited & wanted to hear my story but excused me for the next morning.

While on my bed I was getting the glimpses of TFN rides; even as I type here....I'm thinking..... I just got on to the saddle 4months back & I've done so much....I've done the TFN!!!

I've learned so many things on this tour, about so many aspects of cycling, life & more so myself, that it makes a Chinese proverb true..... "There is more knowledge in travelling a mile than reading a mile long book" It is said that your enemy knows you better then yourself... so true... I know so much more about myself now...!!!! reminds me of a Zen Wisdom: "To conquer oneself is a greater victory than to conquer thousands in a battle".

I'm certainly not leaving the saddle anytime soon.... & after TFN I'm searching... asking myself what next????

From Tour of Nilgiris

For more photos from the tour : &

Hope You enjoyed it. Believe me it was simpler to ride the TFN then to pen it down.

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Comment by Kaushik Iyer on February 18, 2011 at 2:39pm
Thanks it was a loong time ago!!!! While i've come a long way from there, it was good to refresh it and recall the humble beginnings.
Comment by Rama on February 18, 2011 at 8:52am

Wow! What an experience.Beautifully written..Set me thinking about doing something to test my own limits.Thanks.


Comment by Sumir Nagar on February 18, 2011 at 5:52am
That's a great narration buddy.
Comment by Dandekar Vaibhav on May 22, 2010 at 12:57pm
Hey dude, very inspiring. See you for TFN 2011.
Comment by Kaushik Iyer on February 3, 2010 at 2:32pm
Thanks, Good to hear that this has inspired you... But believe me the Last line is actually True!!!
Comment by Dauji Saha on February 1, 2010 at 4:37pm
well, i took a long time to spot your blog - but after reading it at one go, i too feel that i should do it once. thanks for the inspiration.
Comment by Kaushik Iyer on February 6, 2009 at 11:34am
Not only the exitement but all the learnings of TFN is still there & I wish to carry it with me every where I go.
Comment by modi on February 5, 2009 at 7:14pm
Kaushik! loved every bit of what you've written!
See you in TFN09!

Comment by Ravi on February 4, 2009 at 4:33pm
Simply awsome ...
You are an inspiration for many of us here.
Hope to see you on TFN09 !
You guys from Mumbai ROCK
Comment by Kaushik Iyer on February 4, 2009 at 10:32am
Thanks man.... I'd say everybody should do it atleast once :P


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